May 19, 2018 – Day Four – Rothenberg ob der Tauber, second
day
What a delight it is to sleep in! It’s nine o’clock! We have to hustle so as not to miss breakfast
(a mortal sin, I’m sure!). We wander in
around nine forty-five and the sweet lady in charge of breakfast makes us some
more scrambled eggs and slices some more cucumbers and tomatoes. There is still plenty of sliced cheeses,
cubes of feta, bacon and sausages, mixed fruit, yogurt, cereals with various
nuts to add, delicious breads and butter and jams. There are even four kinds of juice from which
to choose! And a fresh pot of coffee at
our table! While we’re eating we hear
drums and look out of the window to see about two dozen musicians and courtiers
marching toward our gate!
We thank our hostess profusely and promise to be earlier
tomorrow!
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View from our balcony |
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Our home away from home |
We come back to our room to stretch and do all those things
one normally does before leaving, then head for the Meistertrunk (Master Draft)
Festival. Before we’ve gone very far we
come upon a group of mounted soldiers who are singing for beers outside a
hotel. One of the horses is particularly
skittish, but no one but his rider seems to notice. We see this group, or one like it, a little
later, having another beer from a friendly innkeeper!
We have plenty of time before the play and go exploring, following
Rick Steve’s walking tour, well, mostly! But first we stop into a shop we’ve seen
before and this time we each buy a stein charm for our necklaces!
We see a blacksmith plying his trade, and a woodturner. We see some of the ladies getting their hair
plaited and a cook preparing a stew. There’s a craft fair that requires
separate admission, but we’ve got our all-weekend passes, so we’re just
fine!
There are falconers with three different birds of prey
including a Harris Hawk and another from Central and South America.
We explore St. Jacob’s Church, which is Lutheran, and houses
what is described as the most beautiful altar piece in all of Germany! And a huge pipe organ! There is a cultural tie between the Lutheran
deanery of St. Jacob’s and Tanzania!
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The Altar of the Holy Blood |
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The details are amazing. Look at the horseshoe nails! |
There are wandering groups of mummenschantz signing and
entertaining all over the town!
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Okay - disclaimer: I'm in love with these buildings! Hold on! |
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This is the nuns' garden, where they grew herbs and medicinal plants. |
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The two crosses meant it was very deadly! I don't know why nuns grew deadly plants! |
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This one's called Dictamus albus L. |
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The well in the garden, and the mechanism for lifting the cover. |
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That's a really big gate! |
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View through the bars in the old city wall. |
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The Night Watchman told us about this little door. If you were out after curfew, you had to pay a fine and crawl back into the city through this tiny door! |
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The face was actually where they poured hot oil down on intruders! |
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The coat of arms for the Red Castle (Rothenberg) |
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Oh, oh! Girl fight! |
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This is all that remains of the old Blasius Chapel. The stone is a memorial to the Jews who died during the Rintfleish Pogrom which nearly extinguished the entire Jewish community in 1298. |
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This is the largest house in town, and it has been continuously occupied by the same family for 300 years! (But as the Night Watchman told us - not the same people!) |
By four we’re ready to eat and find a restaurant,
Baumeisterhaus, where we can sit inside and enjoy a moment or two off our
feet! Marilyn has a not-too-sweet white
wine and I have a dark wheat beer from a brewery called Hofmuhl. If I were more of a connoisseur, I would be
able to tell you it had hints of smoke or whatever. However, I just know it tasted grand! Who knew I’d turn into a beer drinker! (Ole and Stu, are you proud?)
We ordered two of the regional specialties. Mine was called Landsknechtseller (lentils,
noodles, sausage and smoked pork sausage).
Marilyn got Frankische Bratwurst (fried sausage with sauerkraut and
boiled potatoes_) I guess no one eats
vegetables here!! My lentils were
delicious; you are supposed to mix them
with the noodles, which have no flavor of their own. I was unable to finish my dinner!! Who can eat all that food??
We finished up just in time to walk across the square for
the play, in the Imperial Hall. And what
a play! Even though I only caught about
two percent of the dialogue, I already knew the basic story line and the actors
were so expressive, that it was easy to follow along! Basically, the city fathers know they are
about to be overrun by the bad guys and argue over whether to surrender or keep
fighting. They do, and they are
defeated. The conquering anti-hero and
his minions descend on city hall, where our fearless leaders plead for the
city. They even offer him the key! Eventually, the conqueror drinks a large
tankard of wine, with the help of all his companions and challenges the mayor
to drink a similar amount – but by himself and all in one go! He does!!
And the city is saved!
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All of it!?!? |
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I think I can! |
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Look! It's gone! |
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And I feel AWFUL! |
There is a large cast, and beautiful costumes, and musicians
and everything! Very professional,
although I suspect that they are volunteers!
At the end, the young girls throw flowers out into the audience and
Marilyn catches one of the bouquets (I don’t think that means she’s getting
married any time soon!) The entire cast
marches off stage by ones and twos while the musicians play and the audience
claps in unison.
Back outside various groups are gathering to join in the
smaller parade of the festival, but we don’t feel the need to follow them. Instead, we spend a few minutes in Teddy’s,
looking at the Steiff animals; I really
don’t need the beautiful dragon! I’m so
strong! What we really need is ice
cream! I need crème brulee! Yes – life is good. And there’s even a stork on her nest atop one
of the towers!
Back home just before dark with time to plan for tomorrow
(Marilyn has found a Catholic church) and to decide whether we really want to
go inside Neuschwanstein (Cinderella’s) Castle the next day, or just take
pictures from the outside. They won’t
let you take pictures inside, and you have to arrive an hour and a half early,
and there’s something about not ordering your tickets more than two days in
advance and having to have printed them!
It sounds way to complicated – and there are lots of other castles! Pictures from outside will be just fine!
Now to shower and blog and sleep!!
Absolutely charming place and what fun with all of the people in costume!
ReplyDeleteIt's like an on-going Ren Fest! Really a blast!
DeleteWhat incredible photos! And how AMAZING to be at an authentic German festival - it looks like every German folktale story I've ever read! In fact, I think I will show the kids you photos here and read a few this eve. I love the brilliant little curfew door at the city gate. I'm putting one on my house for when the kids are teens! And what luck with the storks! We just read a story about their nests bringing good luck to the lucky family who has one on their rooftop! Also - enough describing your incredible edibles, I need a Melodie photo too -- I'm so hungry now!
ReplyDeleteSo glad I could be of service! Go eat!!
DeleteI think you'd love having a curfew door! Wish I had thought of that a few years back! :)
PS - That was a lot of exclamation marks. Clearly I'm excited about following your travels ;)
ReplyDeleteI agree. Especially more photos of Melodie. All of her pictures and narrative are amazing.
DeleteThank you, dear ladies!!
ReplyDeleteI'm reading a mystery that takes place in medieval Germany. Your photos are great for visualizing the story.
ReplyDeleteSo glad I could be of assistance! :)
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